Ingredient Gossip

00:00:04: Gossip Girl, the podcast about all things hair.

00:00:14: Welcome to a new episode of Gossip Curl, The Podcast About All Things Hair!

00:00:19: My name is Hadna Tesfaye your host and today we will be talking everything there is to know about hair care.

00:00:31: it's a huge field Ian, Mayor Marsalik.

00:00:36: Everybody's favorite!

00:00:38: Hi Ian how you doing?

00:00:39: Let's

00:00:39: hope so at this point.

00:00:41: thank-you so much for having me back.

00:00:42: Yeah

00:00:42: well listen You're always welcome here.

00:00:45: We're gonna talk about hair care

00:00:47: Oof.

00:00:48: Listen there are So many products out There and we're not necessarily get into like Products Like specific products more like product groups.

00:00:59: Yep

00:01:00: How to use them what to do with them and anything that you can add to your hair care routine, get your hair the best point

00:01:09: possible.

00:01:09: Absolutely!

00:01:10: Right?

00:01:10: And we will get into it.

00:01:15: something everyone is concerned about because in order for us have shiny healthy hair needs

00:01:25: Moisturized.

00:01:26: I

00:01:26: mean, we need moisture in our hair just We needed like it Just like we need it in our skin.

00:01:31: Yeah Our hair needs moisture too.

00:01:33: How does moisture work when he comes to here?

00:01:39: So yeah moisture i mean In a nutshell moistures water.

00:01:49: And your hair needs moister.

00:01:50: but its not just you know putting water on Your hair and calling of the day because we've all dipped our hair in the water, like in the morning when you need it to look nice and your walking dogs.

00:02:00: You don't want take a shower yet And then it kind of reshapes but then it dries and your hair goes back To what was right?

00:02:06: It's not necessarily moisturized.

00:02:08: so In-in The world of care products When we're talking about products that give you moisture We also use added ingredients.

00:02:17: look to grab other sources of moisture, aka humectants or things of that nature.

00:02:24: What are those?

00:02:25: What

00:02:25: are?

00:02:25: humectant

00:02:26: and aloe vera a really popular one That is.

00:02:32: I'm seeing a lot more in a lot of industries but more so in the hair care.

00:02:36: Is hyaluronic acid interesting?

00:02:38: yeah.

00:02:38: So if anybody's you know skin care fanatic like me Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that Holds on to quite a bit more times its own weight right and moisture.

00:02:49: So You know Panthenol is another one fun fact about panthenol.

00:02:55: if you see that ingredient unlike a leave-in conditioner or A styling product Panthenola such in moisturizing humectant an ingredient that they use it on burn victims in hospitals.

00:03:10: so those combined with water, agua, aqua.

00:03:15: Usually the first ingredient in a lot of products give a great combination of being able to essentially trap moisture into your hair.

00:03:23: Okay

00:03:23: you know what my favorite humectant is?

00:03:26: Glycerin.

00:03:28: Yeah glycerin's also great.

00:03:29: I mean i love it in my skincare.

00:03:31: and now

00:03:35: Where

00:03:36: does moisture make sense?

00:03:38: Do I need a moisturizing shampoo, do I need to moisturize in conditioner.

00:03:42: Do I needed a moisturizing leave-in product?

00:03:46: where does moisture makes most sense?

00:03:51: because it doesn't hurt at all?

00:03:53: was just gonna say like I don't think anybody would not benefit from having moisture and their hair.

00:03:59: It's the care brands out there or companies that have care brands That maybe has segments.

00:04:07: Um, you know if those who've tuned in to other episodes.

00:04:10: Know that I work for a ankle and brand called shorts cop professional And we have some care lines where there's some four repair That are more of a little bit protein focused moisture frizz volume.

00:04:25: and If you find that whether it's a drugstore or a salon I don't think there's a problem with anybody using the moisture shampoo.

00:04:34: Okay, everybody could get away with it.

00:04:37: personally i think when you get into like conditioners and things that's where you can start to pick what's more suited for your specific need.

00:04:47: okay so say you have super fine hair right?

00:04:51: You're still going to need moisture...you just not gonna need at the same way delivered as someone who has thicker hair Or say you have oily hair, let's go that way.

00:05:03: Okay?

00:05:03: Let-let's go there Say You Have Oily Hair.

00:05:06: Yes Do You Need The Same Amount Of Moisture As Someone Who Has Dry Hair?

00:05:14: I'm gonna...say yes But here is the deal.

00:05:19: Oil and water are two different things And i have Believe it or not When we think about people who have like greasy hair or oily hair We Think That It Doesn't Need things, because it's overabundant with oils or whatever.

00:05:36: But I have in fact as a hairdresser seen people who have greasy or like oilier scalps than normal and very dry ends Because they think their hair doesn't need moisture...because its greasy here.

00:05:50: So for that example you know if the drugstore would find shampoo volumizing or whatever for my greasy hair, which tends to maybe look a little flat sometimes.

00:06:02: So put the volume shampoo in your hands get it here shampoo just at the root where the shampoo is needed let that rinse out through the ends and then when you condition only conditioned the ends with something That's like highly moisturizing right?

00:06:18: And Then you're creating your own balance

00:06:20: Right.

00:06:21: so focus.

00:06:21: if you have a specific product focus it were You need.

00:06:25: okay because you just mentioned protein, cause I think like that's when it comes to hair care also a key ingredient.

00:06:37: A key thing to have because our hair is made of protein.

00:06:44: and how exactly do i know?

00:06:46: I need more protein in my hair And can I overdo It ?

00:06:50: I Have good little test for everybody To figure out if they need Protein.

00:06:55: I would say a good first signal that you do is if you're doing any sort of chemical treatments to your hair, be it color, perming, bleaching.

00:07:05: Those things while technology has taken us quite a bit far in advanced ingredients and how to use them or whatever anything you do to your here really can still kind of disrupt it in some way shape or form.

00:07:19: so If You're Doing Access To Your Hair Protein probably is not going to be a bad option.

00:07:24: To throw into the routine, but the little test of that thing if you get your hair wet within like a reasonable amount?

00:07:34: You should be able to stretch it.

00:07:36: yes um It's our elasticity tests.

00:07:40: do his hairdressers?

00:07:40: yeah okay If its wet and you can pull just a bit there some give thats great!

00:07:52: goes a little bit further and you think it should.

00:07:54: Protein's probably not bad idea

00:07:57: because this close to snapping or what?

00:08:00: It really could, because protein is what strengthens the hair.

00:08:08: Not to get like too crazy technical here.

00:08:10: But

00:08:11: do get crazy technical because where is not hip, you know what I mean?

00:08:15: Yes

00:08:16: so bonds bonding yes a huge topic that i know you want to talk about them in it but yeah they can't help mention it now mm-hmm.

00:08:24: So imagine the structure of the hair.

00:08:27: we've covered this uh few times but your hairs your hair strand has cuticle layers on the outside and then there's The middle part which is called the cortex.

00:08:35: right no If you dissect the hair, we're in science class all of a sudden.

00:08:41: Right right I love it.

00:08:43: Do know visually like what a DNA?

00:08:46: Like you've seen pictures he likes.

00:08:47: yeah Yeah It's like twisted letters.

00:08:50: so The bonds and our hair are like the rungs that you step on Mm-hmm And look the carbon the chains they keep together or like outside at the letter.

00:09:01: those bonds on the inside right there is commonly talked about right now are called disulfite bonds.

00:09:08: So products that have bonding technology connect those bonds, protein on top of that is what helps to reinforce you said it with our hair's naturally made up but its the perfect combination of moisture, protein.

00:09:24: and then bonding on top.

00:09:25: if your hairs very damaged thats gonna make awesome trifecta to make sure that you're giving your hair everything that you possibly could.

00:09:34: Ooh,

00:09:34: okay so can I when do i use?

00:09:40: oh no first before we get into it?

00:09:42: No Can I overdo protein because I feel like there is a thing When You know used a protein mask maybe and you wash It out And it doesn't fear right?

00:09:54: yeah?

00:09:55: So When I first started hairdressing, there was some like at the time it was revolutionary where companies were coming out with these really get-it protein treatments.

00:10:15: There wasn't... They were so much a focus on rebuilding your keratin and protein that it was all.

00:10:21: this is new thing not always keeping in mind the combination and like that nice little sweet spot of ingredients, so that the term over-protonizing definitely was a thing.

00:10:35: And when you over protonize proteins tend to harden When oxygen or oxidation hits them or whatever?

00:10:43: In when they harden overtime I don't actually thoroughly five thousand percent know if this is even something That still happens because i have no technology has taken us far.

00:10:54: But when those proteins overlap and compound on themselves, then harden that could lead to the hair weakening because now isn't fluid, it's kind of stiff.

00:11:07: And then if I go to snatch my hair up in a ponytail really tight and that hair is not giving...

00:11:12: It's gonna break!

00:11:13: Okay so you do need reinforcement but you still do need your hair to be flexible and kinda like move and stretch little bit but not too much

00:11:24: Such as the bigger concept-in life moderation.

00:11:28: everything has a sweet spot.

00:11:30: You gotta figure out.

00:11:33: But, I mean we have come a long way in finding combinations of ingredients that make it way easier.

00:11:38: Since were added let's talk about those bonds right?

00:11:41: Are all bonding technologies created equal?

00:11:46: The intent is common.

00:11:49: commonly like yeah i'd say you want to fix the buns and hair.

00:11:55: There are different kinds of bonds in the hair.

00:11:58: The ones that we focus on currently, in the industry and in hair care in general right now In repairing our disulfide bonds aka covalent bonds.

00:12:09: These are the strongest bonds in your hair That are like the rungs of that ladder And when you over bleach or heat styling is another You can wait to do it.

00:12:23: mechanical damage, like brush, brush.

00:12:28: I

00:12:30: feel personally attacked when

00:12:32: you talk about

00:12:34: that today especially if talked about a tight ponytail.

00:12:37: You've told me it was like sir.

00:12:40: maybe my face needs it okay but that's another story.

00:12:43: go ahead keep on talking.

00:12:46: yes we're focused mainly and repairing those bonds because the ones that we've realized when they're broken, these disulfide barns.

00:12:57: It really kind of weakens the structure of the hair.

00:13:01: like my analogy that I use in training is if you pulled a ladder out your shed because had to climb up side of house and it has rickety rungs on it would you use it?

00:13:14: Probably not.

00:13:15: So If You Have Hair That's Weakened and then you go to lighten it again, color it.

00:13:22: Again these are all things that are just like slamming it.

00:13:25: so bonding technology as a whole has come even so far is was introduced um...to kind of interconnect those rungs of the ladder within the cortex of the hair.

00:13:38: So while you may not see there is something happening on the inside.

00:13:42: Okay, because interesting thing I think that first time i heard about bonding technology was when color treating your hair while people would kind of like work it in.

00:13:56: thats how its.

00:13:57: what's when ive first heard of

00:13:59: this right?

00:14:00: yeah so bonding um...there are a couple companies that came big at market And it was a liquid that you would add to your color or your lightener, most popularly.

00:14:13: That would kind of... It would act as like a safety belt during your lifting process.

00:14:21: but even if I put the safety belt on and drove off the side of cliff with that saved my life.

00:14:26: so we still had take some precautions about.

00:14:29: You know, you can't just blast somebody's hair because you put bonding technology in it.

00:14:33: It was just an added layer of insurance or like protection.

00:14:36: Right

00:14:37: right.

00:14:38: so who are bonding agents made for and Who should use them?

00:14:43: And is there a delivery of those Agents that makes most sense?

00:14:49: I don't think.

00:14:52: if you've done anything to your hair i'd say far and wide Bonding this not A bad thing Here, here's the I'd say if we're gonna break down.

00:15:02: The most obvious categories of ingredients moisture and humectants is kind Of for me.

00:15:08: this Is how i do it?

00:15:09: I don't know scientists out there might be like these guys crazy.

00:15:12: Moisture humectant things that really make their hair supple And provide That kind of fluidity in that like supple feeling to Their right.

00:15:21: protein helps To kind of you know, re-strengthen what our hair is naturally made up to begin with.

00:15:26: Now on the market we've got bonding technology.

00:15:32: there's a newer kind of bonding technology that it like three dimensional.

00:15:39: so its just gonna go in and grab any broken bond in their hair.

00:15:43: really kinda tighten all together.

00:15:47: So if your done something to your hair, tie it up.

00:15:51: blow dry too much color bleach.

00:15:53: It whatever.

00:15:53: I don't think bonding is necessarily a bad thing and i'll tell you why?

00:15:58: I have bonding products in my shower because when I bleach my hair...I like it obviously want care for it be strong.

00:16:06: My husband does nothing with his hair and uses the same product And looks great.

00:16:10: So that's like my scientific experiment at home.

00:16:12: Like if I use bonding on here doesn't need it will damage.

00:16:16: no No but If Your Hair Does Need Cool.

00:16:19: So unlike protein, which you can overdo or used to be able do because now technology has kind of like safer asses cause we were maybe all.

00:16:29: But

00:16:29: I still think it's a possibility to overproteinize the hair okay?

00:16:32: Yeah so while You Can Overproteinate Proteinize your Hair Your Not Able To Overbond Your Hair.

00:16:43: i know that within Like The Products That We Make the bonding technology, let's say it goes where it needs to go.

00:16:51: Yeah?

00:16:52: Because here is another fun fact hair that has damaged like... Let us say my hair on my finger again this part is damaged and this part damage.

00:17:05: those areas of the hair are negatively charged.

00:17:09: And care ingredients are positively charged.

00:17:12: so when you think about chemistry opposites attract within our portfolio.

00:17:18: It goes where it needs to go and the rest rinses

00:17:21: away.".

00:17:21: Okay, all

00:17:23: right that's interesting.

00:17:24: so that smart technology for you.

00:17:26: okay.

00:17:26: um

00:17:29: when talking about ingredients we mentioned something earlier.

00:17:33: they kind of stuck ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol stuff that we maybe know from skincare and now finding its way into hair care.

00:17:47: And I really think there's something called skin-carification

00:17:55: of... Skinification?

00:17:56: Yes!

00:17:56: That was what.

00:17:59: In a way, I thought like why but then i realized no.

00:18:02: But we do have skin on our head as well.

00:18:05: it's our scalp right?

00:18:06: So let's get into scalp care.

00:18:08: yeah um what is It that Is new On the market in terms of Like scalp Care?

00:18:16: so i'm excited That and i don't think it's Trends like within like The world Scalp has come up as a topic so much.

00:18:26: So that we have an entire episode dedicated to it, but specifically too right now.

00:18:32: You know Five years ago I really didn't see a ton Like at our drugstore for example.

00:18:39: That was dedicated to your scalp like it was very much Jimmy I don't know about you like A lot of DIY things and oils people would use or whatever.

00:18:47: But i see Now There's products out there that are for balancing your scalp, whether it's dry or oily.

00:18:59: Or flaky or what have you and I just...I never had seen that before!

00:19:05: And then It made me think like well healthy hair must come from a healthy scalp.

00:19:11: so this is something That i need to address and ill tell ya why

00:19:16: He was already laughing.

00:19:18: So I have the little beard brush used to get in place.

00:19:25: I was at home, yeah.

00:19:27: And then like you know it just felt nice.

00:19:29: so i went this and flakes.

00:19:31: Flakes!

00:19:32: I said.

00:19:32: why is its snowing?

00:19:33: This is disgusting!

00:19:36: So okay luckily enough for me to work in a manufacturer somebody hooked up with some scalp stuff or whatever I mean, of course it made a difference.

00:19:46: I'm adding this concentrated moisture which happens to be hyaluronic acid- Interesting!

00:19:51: ...to my scalp and then I'm massaging that in or whatever has now become like my Sunday thing when we're watching TV and cuddling the dogs on the couch...I will grab my paddle brush whether its the scalp specific treatment or rosemary business that i've got.

00:20:12: I'll part my hair and I'll drip it on the scalp, massage it in.

00:20:16: And then i take my paddle brush and just like run back and forth across my scalp...I should be doing some ASMR right now.

00:20:24: My hair is a hot mess!

00:20:26: It's greasy but that alone....it's very calming.

00:20:31: so when you rinse your hair out for the next day in, I don't know if it's DeAndreff.

00:20:42: I have not seen a dermatologist yet but like... It is so embarrassing to me and i wear all black all the time!

00:20:47: So when people are like oh cool great um quickly become like a nice little ritual of mine.

00:20:55: And I'm happy that there are products now out in the market, or specifically dedicated to Scalp.

00:20:59: Right and it's so interesting listening you talk about this...I just realized yes obviously there are rituals all over the world who have been scalp focused for centuries right?

00:21:13: That we're gonna get into oils soon but doing exactly what you're doing forever, right?

00:21:22: Applying an oil and then just massaging.

00:21:25: Massaging maybe taking it through the ends You know yeah And then kind of like letting it sit in and rinsing it out.

00:21:32: so that has happened Right and that's obviously That is a thing I am Just finding It interesting that as you said its Finding Its Way Now Into The Drugstore

00:21:42: and

00:21:42: into mainstream products that are like available in Europe and the US now, right?

00:21:50: It's really interesting.

00:21:51: And it's not so much... I don't want to say home remedies but a traditional remedy is you can go into wherever drugstore Not necessarily an oil because if you have, I don't know a super oily scalp.

00:22:08: maybe that's not what you want to do.

00:22:09: Maybe you wanna get the right anyway but You Know What I Mean Right?

00:22:14: Okay so talking about oils let's get into oils and Let's Get Into One Oil In Specific which is really also Super Controversial Because When i told you That It Doesn'T Work For Me You Were Like Interesting.

00:22:26: I Want To Find Like I Need Like.

00:22:28: I Don't.

00:22:28: I Wanna See Why it Doesn't Work for You Because It Seems To Work For A Lot Of People and that is coconut oil.

00:22:34: Coconut oil does not work for me on my hair, And it doesn't work to be on the body either right?

00:22:41: Unless I wanna... It doesn't do anything in terms of moisture which you know- Which gives your hands

00:22:48: glow.

00:22:48: Yeah having listened earlier makes sense because its an oil but not water Right.

00:22:57: So yeah what's thing with coconut oil?

00:23:02: A lot people in the world have leaned on natural ingredients to do their beauty rituals.

00:23:14: And a far be it for me, well now there's this.

00:23:20: thousands of years people have been using different kinds of oils and things like.

00:23:23: keep on keeping on.

00:23:25: I

00:23:27: don't think there is anything wrong with that.

00:23:30: some like it and then of course, you.

00:23:33: It just doesn't vibe with your chemistry or your skin or hair whatever.

00:23:39: but I have a colleague who's got crazy curly hair And looked a smidge dry.

00:23:45: so was hard for me to ask her Like what do you do?

00:23:49: What did she say?

00:23:49: Hi love coconut oil!

00:23:52: And i think its phenomenally if its resource sustainably correctly a lot of harvesting ingredients and how it's done.

00:24:03: Yeah, I think if its done correctly is great.

00:24:06: um... And keep doing it!

00:24:09: The only things i could see would be like If you don't rinse out or cleanse your hair from It?

00:24:16: I COULD SEE there being build up with IT which in again There are probably cultural ritual ways that people remove it put on whatever.

00:24:28: for me I would like to find a product that has multi-benefits from it, if i'm gonna go that route.

00:24:38: So while I do enjoy coconut oil on my legs after the shower because they get really dry for me... That wouldn't be something full of solutions involving oils and stuff that have been happening for thousands of years.

00:24:56: So you just got to find what works free, right?

00:24:57: And I really wanted it to work because so readily available everywhere.

00:25:02: You can find it so easily in people like especially in the curly hair or thicker.

00:25:06: here community doesn't even have To be textured.

00:25:08: It could we'd just be thicker here Have been using it for like so long and i Really wanted it too work but it Doesn't Work For Me.

00:25:15: Maybe if I put something like glycerin based on my body and then, I can put the coconut oil on top of it as an occlusive.

00:25:25: It's kind of that traps to moisture because lipids are not moisture right?

00:25:31: Like oils but not okay.

00:25:34: But yeah now doesn't work out in my hair.

00:25:37: If you use coconut oil And have found a way maybe i could make this work for me too.

00:25:45: I mean, let us know.

00:25:46: Like i want to join that community too because I love coconut oil but also if there's another oil they have you haven't been using on your scalp or your hair?

00:25:56: Let us know what it is and how long you've used It What You Use It For Because We Are Really Desperate To Learn Let Us Know.

00:26:03: Okay

00:26:04: Full Disclosure

00:26:05: Go ahead

00:26:06: Within The Past Month.

00:26:07: Alone I Have Gotten Into Castor Oil.

00:26:10: You Have

00:26:11: Mostly for Skin Because when you put it on at night, like it is anti-bacterial moisturizing.

00:26:17: You know?

00:26:18: It gives such an insane moisture I wake up and feel like... But supposedly its really good for scalp.

00:26:26: so i am trying.

00:26:28: So I'm gonna continue to do that, because it's supposedly good for hair growth and all the things or whatever.

00:26:33: That's

00:26:33: why her people use on their edges right?

00:26:36: Yes!

00:26:36: so i am going move from my face a little bit north into my scalp.

00:26:40: when see you next time will give your progress report.

00:26:43: if its...you know..all of this is not skin care podcast.

00:26:51: but yeah ill try out on my scalp.

00:26:53: Okay,

00:26:54: castor oil I've heard as well.

00:26:55: I have used it too and I think that has an etched gel in it.

00:27:00: so that makes sense.

00:27:01: Rosemary Oil

00:27:05: So rosemary oil specifically at herb is known to help balance the scalp whether that's for hair growth or the ritual of how you put it on your scalp.

00:27:27: I mean, and again like there are brands out there that market it with other ingredients in it yeah?

00:27:33: Right There is a big one out there That i actually have And I read the label finally and they're tons of other ingredient and then this totally makes sense.

00:27:46: So Again, I think in terms of is it ayurvedic?

00:27:51: Ayurvedics.

00:27:53: There are my God hundreds dare I say have different kinds of oils that serve different purposes.

00:28:02: you know That have been around for thousands of years.

00:28:04: So i guess It would be.

00:28:06: Is it something so niche that You need For you that your like?

00:28:09: i use this oil because i Like it.

00:28:10: for This reason.

00:28:12: or you Know products that Have multi benefits as well Whether they're at the drugstore or at that naturopath store.

00:28:22: Every single human being on this earth is so individually different in their chemistry and their pH, whatever.

00:28:30: yeah

00:28:31: all right okay?

00:28:32: So rosemary as an ingredient works.

00:28:34: you just need to figure out what kind of like works obviously works.

00:28:38: I think there have been studies on this.

00:28:40: well Rosemary does work.

00:28:43: I mean, if you stick in a little bit of rosemary and a little water it's probably not going to do much.

00:28:48: Right?

00:28:50: But If You Find A Way To Really Extract Whatever Goodness There Is In The Rosemary Plant It Could Take You Places.

00:28:59: That' What We're Saying Okay Cool.

00:29:01: So there is one more ingredient that i want talk about.

00:29:04: And because theres this thing where You know if you use it correctly back in like I don't know forty years ago people would use a to bleach their hair.

00:29:18: This is lemon juice.

00:29:20: What do you think about lemon juice and hair care?

00:29:25: Oh God, like that.

00:29:26: so I read this little fact that like haircare yes Like hundreds of thousands of years ago like Egyptian times.

00:29:38: They used to use Egyptians at Egyptian times, they used to mix citrus juices and water to cleanse their hair.

00:29:46: Because when you think about citrus and oils it kind of cuts them.

00:29:51: so that would mix these combinations in using them on the scalp and their hair to cleanse.

00:29:59: And while I don't think this is a common practice anymore that i'm aware of lemon has taken the stage, I think big time style like in the eighties.

00:30:11: Right?

00:30:11: That's right.

00:30:12: There was a very famous product that people would spray on their hair and it had lemon juice or something like that.

00:30:19: And then they'd hit the sun!

00:30:21: Then you have these beautiful streaks of blonde in your hair if you were already blond but only than... But then the rest of us who are not.

00:30:36: Well, now my ends are just flaming orange and you know because lemon juice yes will over time create a disruption of the melanin in your hair.

00:30:48: Because it is a citric acid and the combination of heat and light from the sun and oxygen in air.

00:30:55: yeah!

00:30:56: It'll cause shift on level I think, I'd wager to say it's not always the shift that is the intended outcome.

00:31:09: But... ...I know there are people out here right now listening this and they're like.

00:31:13: you know what?

00:31:13: It works for me!

00:31:14: And i love that for you.

00:31:16: I actually do have a friend who does this every summer.. ..and she gets like- I don't know....it works on her hair.

00:31:21: Totally!

00:31:22: I'm like, well looks pretty like.

00:31:24: did you do something?

00:31:25: lemon spray in summer.

00:31:27: I was like, wait what?

00:31:28: You do that.

00:31:29: you still do that.

00:31:30: she's like yeah and it works for me.

00:31:31: i'm like okay girl all right her hair is fine its not even dry or anything anyway.

00:31:38: but talking about dry and kind of crusty no not crusty crusty sounds way too harsh.

00:31:55: Remember, because I think you said this is not a skincare podcast and it's absolutely not.

00:32:00: It's the hair care podcast.

00:32:02: That's an aircare episode on an airpodcast.

00:32:05: but i think they are parallels.

00:32:07: Because when uh You see something in skin care?

00:32:10: A little bit later do See it in hair care as well.

00:32:13: so we had like This whole um glass Skin

00:32:19: trend.

00:32:20: right.

00:32:21: yeah How many steps?

00:32:25: At least six, right.

00:32:28: And now we have this glass

00:32:30: hair

00:32:31: trend which some of us can do and others can't.

00:32:34: but for those who can because they have naturally straight hair let's go into it.

00:32:39: what is that about how to achieve with hair care?

00:32:43: Okay the idea You know, remember the cuticle layers on there?

00:32:53: Yeah.

00:32:53: They have to be laying flat which when they are flat creates a flat surface that light can reflect on right off of.

00:33:03: so you think if a cotton strip is it shiny?

00:33:06: No because this not a flat surfaced Right.

00:33:09: So The idea behind glass hair Is To get each strand Of hairs Cuticles all Laying down perfectly like A fish scale.

00:33:21: Do I Think That possible?

00:33:23: only with like a conditioner?

00:33:26: Right.

00:33:27: No, I think that there are smoothing systems out there.

00:33:34: um...that will help to give you that glass hair situation.

00:33:40: but when Laying over product on top of the hair and then most of them are taking a flat iron.

00:33:49: And I'm smoothing, right?

00:33:51: Heating that product into onto thank you to.

00:33:56: yes The hair with like a few passes and Then it creates that really laminated effect.

00:34:03: and then was like Shine products that have like certain silicones or things like that they give a very high glossy shine combination is when you can get a really kind of high-gloss shine, like people who know how to rather or go through the salon to get their hair blown out.

00:34:23: You'll notice when somebody's blow drying in the hair and it's on the brush that blow dryer constantly facing

00:34:32: down

00:34:32: because your cuticle layers are Going like this right facing.

00:34:36: This way, right?

00:34:37: If you come if you blow air the opposite way You're blowing the cuticles open.

00:34:40: Okay.

00:34:41: So with a brush and a blow dryer Your blowing the air like this And then the brush is a manual manipulation to get those cuticles closed.

00:34:49: Then what the heat of the blow dryer in airflow and all the things combined.

00:34:52: yes With whatever product you put in there

00:34:55: great

00:34:56: it's going to help you get that End result in nine times out of ten mm-hmm.

00:35:02: You'll notice that on Instagram.

00:35:05: When people are finished blow drying, nine times out of ten.

00:35:09: I've noticed they're using some sort of hot tool whether it's a curling iron to create these big waves.

00:35:15: but heat in direction will help to seal those cuticles and so that's how you're going.

00:35:22: get close too if not the glass like shine kind.

00:35:26: Okay, so when you say this is this because I mean let's talk about keratin treatments.

00:35:33: then real quick right.

00:35:34: Is that a keratin treatment?

00:35:37: Yes

00:35:37: smoothing systems and they're not reversible.

00:35:40: Right if you have it in your hair or what can You wash it out That's

00:35:45: eventually They do

00:35:47: cuz they don't just grow well.

00:35:49: Well i mean to be fair there are different kinds but like these express blowouts things Like that semi-permanent temporary

00:35:59: wave with heat damage Magically straight hair.

00:36:04: the heat because how big is the risk of heat damage?

00:36:06: I mean those kinds of things that would definitely go to a trained professional to do Because then they're They're trained on like what degrees to put the flat iron and how much product.

00:36:16: That's the kicker.

00:36:17: Mm-hmm A lot of hairdressers are putting way too much product on And then doing a lot of he in that that's gonna end you not in the right arena where you want to be.

00:36:25: so Again, it is a sweet spot.

00:36:28: A window that you need to kind of hit perfectly to get what you want.

00:36:32: so To sum it up glass hair You will not Get from hair care alone?

00:36:40: You will Not get It From product Alone!

00:36:42: You Will Need some sort Of heat source in order to really Seal the whole deal and Close The cuticle Down.

00:36:52: I would take a step back and say, you're not going to get glass hair from products that you use in the shower.

00:36:57: Okay?

00:36:58: You're definitely going to need some sort of manual manipulation with the hands outside of that... To create The Glass Look effect!

00:37:07: And some smoothing agents.

00:37:09: yeah whatever

00:37:10: the smooting agent...

00:37:11: It might be a shelf product it might be.

00:37:13: I believe in my heart of hearts that you're not gonna get glass hair out of the shower.

00:37:21: Okay, so after having used all of that right?

00:37:26: You use your shampoo, you'll use your little mask, you use your conditioner, you have styling product, do maybe using an oil every once and a while or you use it on a regular...you are using a lot of products!

00:37:43: do a deep shampoo.

00:37:49: I'd like a deep cleansing, deep cleaning of some sort... A hundred percent yes!

00:37:54: ...of your hair and scalp?

00:37:56: Yep What

00:37:57: kind of products- what kinda hair care would you use for that?

00:38:01: A lot, a lot not all but a lot of brands have

00:38:05: a

00:38:06: clarifying deep cleansing key.

00:38:09: lating is another word shampoo.

00:38:12: With that one I have never heard.

00:38:13: Key what?

00:38:14: Keylating, C-H-E-L-A T-I-N-G It's another word for like a deep kind of removal of the hair buildup product build up oil buildup.

00:38:25: um i think it's a great idea!

00:38:28: I really do.

00:38:31: For everybody to be honest Um...i use a deep cleansing clarifying shampoo at least once a week just because i put different waxes and clays in my hair On my Sunday scalp ritual, I want to start the week fresh.

00:38:46: So you know, I deep clean but for anybody who has color while I did say in our hair color episode like be nice and whatever...I think a deep cleansing shampoo every now-and then is not a bad idea for blondes because blonde bleached, lightened blonde hair is like a magnet.

00:39:09: For minerals and just anything.

00:39:11: dust environmental pollution products things build up on blondes.

00:39:16: And because blonde as a blank canvas you see everything.

00:39:19: so You need the gub brightening shampoo next to a nourishing shampoo To kind of alternate.

00:39:27: Yeah

00:39:28: Who uses a lavender colored shampoo?

00:39:32: Mostly blondes.

00:39:33: Okay To counteract the yellow you

00:39:37: got

00:39:40: it.

00:39:41: Here's what's more if I am a coppery redhead and I'm going on vacation to somewhere super sunny And I want to keep that copper from getting Barassi You can also use a purple shampoo as a right yeah, so it's mainly targeted and marketed towards blondes.

00:39:59: but Purple will cancel out like yellow gold as a just look at the color wheel, right?

00:40:06: And whatever tone purple your color shampoo is this kind of across from it.

00:40:11: What what is able to cancel

00:40:13: out?

00:40:14: you know who my favorite group of people if People Is like older ladies with purple hair My Favorite crowd.

00:40:21: before we go I have A fun fact

00:40:23: for You Go ahead.

00:40:25: Did You Know That Keratin, our skin.

00:40:30: Our hair what it's made up of?

00:40:34: when you heat or damage the protein itself turns a yellow color right?

00:40:40: I know a lot about eyes because they've had some eye drama in my past.

00:40:44: but the lens The natural lens that you have in your eye Mm-hmm That allows you to see Is a keratin mm-hmm and so when that ages Right starts to turn yellow

00:40:59: The keratin and you're okay?

00:41:00: Yep.

00:41:01: So like we were talking about little purple hair old ladies, right.

00:41:05: so when a hairdresser makes their hair a little bit purple to them When they are looking in the mirror They look through slightly yellow filter.

00:41:15: It looks white to them.

00:41:19: That's why you have a group of fabulous-

00:41:22: Blue hair, purple hair ladies.

00:41:23: I

00:41:23: love that!

00:41:24: Okay?

00:41:25: Hey, it was so cute because to them it looks like, oh bless their

00:41:28: heart.

00:41:29: But the rest is what we're like, Oh Bless Their Heart.

00:41:32: That's exactly what we were saying.

00:41:35: Before I let go and this episode is really long but there are just so much we had to go through Do you brush your hair?

00:41:46: When you had longer hair, because now I don't know.

00:41:47: But when you have longer hair do you comb your hair in the shower or

00:41:53: not?".

00:41:54: Yes

00:41:55: Okay me too.

00:41:56: Oh my god!

00:41:56: I was so scared that you were going to say no never do it Because wet hair is so delicate and yes but i do need to wash it.

00:42:08: Oh, so I can keep on doing that?

00:42:10: Yes.

00:42:11: Because your hair naturally has growth cycles which we'll talk about in another episode.

00:42:15: but the hair shedding part like...I don't know.

00:42:20: plus i like the feeling of my scalp Which you've already known by my Sunday little ritual Like..i just do

00:42:27: Alright okay cool.

00:42:29: So if you liked both us Comb your hair under the shower, you can continue to do so.

00:42:36: Relax we're all safe.

00:42:38: other than that I hope that you learned a lot and maybe You're gonna pick up Ian's little Sunday ritual.

00:42:45: grab Your favorite little oil massage it into your scalp And brush

00:42:50: brush brush

00:42:51: the scalp their hair?

00:42:53: Do you wash It out though?

00:42:54: yeah You do wash it out.

00:42:55: Okay, you can wash it or not.

00:42:57: choose to wash it off?

00:42:59: There was so much that we went through and yeah like I'm sure are gonna keep some of this.

00:43:05: maybe again apply your weekly daily routine.

00:43:09: let's see get yourself a little moisture shampoo then will be in the next episode.

00:43:14: thank-you for being with us.

00:43:16: speak soon bye!

00:43:22: A podcast from Henke Consumer Brands, brought to you

00:43:30: by the Global

00:43:31: Hair Upskilling Team produced

00:43:33: by

00:43:33: Bose Park Productions.

00:43:35: Executive Producers Manjana Dietrich Zuhalda and Chris Guse.

00:43:40: Editor Ian Mayer-Marcellek.

00:43:43: Production Fabio Lautenschläger.

00:43:46: Project Management Miki Sitz Hair & Makeup Rania Abduraman Ariel Tross.

00:43:51: Styling Romina Mann.

00:43:55: If You Like Gossip Curl Please subscribe to the podcast, hit that notification bell so you don't miss an episode.

00:44:02: And while your at it leave us a review and tell all of our friends about this!