Don't Lie About Your Hair Color

00:00:04: Gossip Girl, the podcast about all things hair.

00:00:14: Hello and welcome back to another episode of Gossip Curl!

00:00:17: My name is Hadna Tesfaye.

00:00:19: I am your host And today we're getting into something that some of you might have already played with.

00:00:31: think about when before getting to the salon, what you have to think about.

00:00:34: When you do it at home.

00:00:36: and we're going to dive into that with someone who's been doing hair color for I don't know how long but welcome back Ian Mayor Marsalek.

00:00:43: Hi Ian!

00:00:45: Yeah this is got to be out of any topic that Gossip Crow has had me as a guest on to talk about my most passionate subject

00:00:56: The thing you do.

00:00:57: teach five-day courses about

00:00:59: this.

00:01:00: So what we're trying to do today...

00:01:04: Well, that down!

00:01:04: ...we are trying to doing is squeeze it into thirty maybe forty.

00:01:11: let's see where we land.

00:01:13: so Ian lets get in to it.

00:01:16: hair color.

00:01:18: What Is the first thing You have To consider when even thinking About getting Hair Color or Doing hair color?

00:01:26: Sure.

00:01:27: So I would like to take us on a little journey from the very beginning about... A little bit of how hair color works.

00:01:35: And, understand how hair colors work let me just give you quick low down on the strand-of-hair as structure yeah?

00:01:43: Yes

00:01:43: so we're talking about single hair.

00:01:45: yes okay

00:01:47: in essence they are on textbook.

00:01:49: there's three parts of their hair were gonna focus onto.

00:01:53: when do think about astrand if your thinking my finger here On the inside, that's where your natural melanin.

00:02:01: That make your hair color what it is?

00:02:03: That's where they live.

00:02:05: Inside in the middle

00:02:06: you got it.

00:02:07: yeah on The outside of everybody's here we have the cuticle layers and like if You're a savvy hair person then you've heard the terms cuticle layer sealing them coating them.

00:02:19: Yeah so really Cuticle Layers think Of Them as Like shingles on a roof that overlap each other or like fish scales.

00:02:29: When they are flat, That's when light can reflect off of them and thats what we as humans perceive is shine

00:02:37: right?

00:02:38: When the cuticles all jacked up in kind of like meh it doesn't look shiny Right.

00:02:43: so to understand the hair structure at its very basic basic basic form first Is where I would start

00:02:48: okay So we have those layers yes And wear.

00:02:52: exactly.

00:02:54: Does hair color sit?

00:02:57: Mm-hmm

00:02:57: because our natural hair color you said sits in the very middle.

00:03:00: Yes,

00:03:01: right.

00:03:01: So it depends on the kind of color you're talking about.

00:03:05: By and large there's roughly four categories of color.

00:03:09: There's I mean, there's a lot more if you want to get into it.

00:03:12: but there's temporary There is a semi permanent yes then there's A Demi Permanent And Then There's Permanence.

00:03:19: i think The only Confusing Thing There Could Be Permanently Permanente Color.

00:03:23: that You put it on, goes in and does his jab.

00:03:25: It's permanently there in essence.

00:03:28: Temporary you put it down and literally stays for like a hot minute And then its gone.

00:03:33: Right?

00:03:33: It washes out.

00:03:34: Yeah!

00:03:36: Semi-permanent lasts little bit longer than temporary.

00:03:41: In a demi last even longer that before you get into permanent again.

00:03:47: So really the four types of hair color are about longevity from least to most temporary semi-demi permanent.

00:03:55: Okay, and does that have to do with the formula of the color or does that has to do where it sits on your hair?

00:04:07: I like what you're going a little bit both!

00:04:10: So when we talk about the hair structure again in order for me which is, for example a permanent color.

00:04:23: I need to open the front door of that strand of hair meaning i need to lift or like swell-open the cuticle there.

00:04:32: what does that?

00:04:33: Is anything alkaline so like... What is alkaline?

00:04:36: Like ammonia you keep under your sink.

00:04:40: different kinds of soaps can be alkaline like pH scale acids, lemon juice all that.

00:04:46: Alkalins are like bleaches, ammonia's things of that nature.

00:04:49: so anything on the alkaline side is going to help open the cuticle layer which means hair color can go inside.

00:04:57: gotcha mm-hmm okay?

00:05:00: So let's look at the stuff you can get it home and the stuff that you get at the salon.

00:05:08: where's?

00:05:11: That's a really good question.

00:05:14: You know, I work for a professional brand and we've got just- For example within our permanent color range over one hundred colors.

00:05:21: Wow so but like yeah when you're at like a drugstore or pharmacy Or something?

00:05:27: You've got maybe twenty to forty Maybe fifty different colors that are meant for everybody.

00:05:33: So the difference is Professionals like me, I've gone through training to really understand what all of those hundred plus tubes mean.

00:05:43: And then it's up to me and my creative little brain up here... To take this one in this way and mix them together based on what i know about your hair.

00:05:54: Based on what you want to achieve?

00:05:57: and also based on what you tell me.

00:06:00: Because I cannot tell you often enough if your listening don't lie to your hairdresser it will only hurt in the end because If You Tell Me like, oh no i've never colored my hair And I believe you have hair past your shoulders.

00:06:17: To you, I've never colored my hair but like you did it four years ago.

00:06:21: Oh It'll be

00:06:23: somewhere.

00:06:24: There's still

00:06:24: a haunting little ghost of that color past long time and go

00:06:28: And will show up during the process.

00:06:30: Yes

00:06:31: So to come back your question about what is difference between color at home in this salon?

00:06:36: I have tons of choices i can mix In Salon based on how creative I want to be.

00:06:42: What do You Want?

00:06:43: And also tell me About Your Hair At home.

00:06:47: hair color the pigments that are in each box.

00:06:51: Are a bit broader, so they just cover more.

00:06:56: I guess The best way to put it is They kind of cover more potential outcomes within a range of people.

00:07:01: So

00:07:02: if you have a be they cover a bigger spectrum correct?

00:07:05: right?

00:07:05: yeah gotcha?

00:07:06: So you have medium to dark brown here.

00:07:08: If you went to this section That has medium to dark brown shades, whether it's chocolates, coppers, neutrals.

00:07:18: You know, ashy that's kind of the range that you would fall within to like change your hair color?

00:07:24: Of course you can go lighter, of course you could go darker but right within that little subset of colors is a very broad range to give you an expected outcome versus letting a store shopper who goes in and is like, I'm going to color my hair.

00:07:42: And then giving you one hundred fifty choices?

00:07:45: Like would you really know what to do with

00:07:47: that?

00:07:48: No i wouldn't probably see the difference as well.

00:07:52: Sure Would I see the different?

00:07:54: With an untrained eye if he gave me twenty five browns.

00:07:59: all of those are Brown.

00:08:00: Do You Know What I Mean?

00:08:04: Yeah, you might see a difference.

00:08:06: But would know the intended outcome of why use one over other?

00:08:11: That may be an episode.

00:08:12: part two is what got in bottle or bowl plus whatever on your head.

00:08:21: gives you that out.

00:08:21: come

00:08:24: Think about, again this color in your hair at home.

00:08:27: Does that color give me more room for error?

00:08:31: Yes it does right.

00:08:32: a

00:08:32: hundred percent yep and has to.

00:08:34: yes yeah That's ultimately.

00:08:36: you just put it perfectly.

00:08:37: Yeah, that is probably the biggest difference.

00:08:40: Is that The color you can use at home?

00:08:43: Just It covers a little bit more bases than the individual teeny tiny choices that we have In a salon.

00:08:50: But then we were trained to do that.

00:08:51: So, ultimately the difference they're both phenomenal quality right?

00:08:55: They've both served the same purposes for people who are using them whether it's at home or in salon Or most um...they just a different customer.

00:09:04: Before we go into this salon let stay-at-home with color At Home For A Little Bit Right.

00:09:10: so what Are The Most Common Mistakes People Make When They Color Their Hair At Home?

00:09:15: Yeah

00:09:16: So, you've done all the work.

00:09:17: You have been to drugstore and pharmacy wherever get your hair color picked a colour.

00:09:24: now at home what do?

00:09:26: I'm going give some visuals think about.

00:09:29: so you're at the grocery store right standing behind this woman who has kind of brighter grey roots then little bit out there like kind of coloured but still gray roots in it ends that looks muddy black.

00:09:45: You can see this woman.

00:09:46: I do, yes!

00:09:47: Okay so what that is if you're trying to cover your gray hair at home?

00:09:51: right

00:09:51: she needs a touch-up.

00:09:54: but sometimes people take the color they've got and put it all over their whole hair which i guess.

00:10:04: If you don't know then where are you trying to achieve?

00:10:11: coloring those grey roots?

00:10:15: where the gray roots are only.

00:10:17: Only?

00:10:17: Yeah,

00:10:18: okay because your hair down here is already colored.

00:10:20: Okay So what happens when you put color on top of color?

00:10:24: it deposits again and Again And again until they end just become like this dark muddy messy black hole Of hair color that's been built up God knows how many times You've done It.

00:10:37: and then When people try to go enlighten That Hair I mean we're talking oranges, pinks greens like Halloween extravaganza galore.

00:10:45: Oh

00:10:45: my god!

00:10:47: Yeah.

00:10:48: That was wrong!

00:10:49: It can

00:10:50: be... And that's so wrong for you to say it like THAT!

00:10:54: Okay, the biggest mistake is going over when retouching your color.

00:11:02: whatever underneath doesn't have to be gray could just be a Straßenküterblond in German Dark blonde could be.

00:11:12: so just go over that part.

00:11:16: only go over the new growth, right?

00:11:18: Alright, okay.

00:11:19: Never go over and over because what happens is sometimes I see why people are inclined to do that right?

00:11:25: Because after let's say summer you don't like your color doesn't have the same vibrancy it did in spring when we had whatever.

00:11:36: so the summer... And i know an episode coming up on bleaching only but It color does fade.

00:11:44: So I do see that even though if you're just trying to touch up the roots, why people would feel the need to go over their lengths again?

00:11:52: So we'll let you in on a little insider tip here.

00:11:54: Go ahead

00:11:55: Let's say you are doing like a brown or reddish or copper something and i do want To Touch Up Just The Regrowth Area.

00:12:02: Right Okay cool but now your telling me not put That Color On My Hair Which Needs Refreshing.

00:12:08: So what I would do, and this is a rule that we kind of learn in cosmetology school.

00:12:14: Permanent color remember when i said it opens the cuticle?

00:12:17: Right And goes inside

00:12:18: right.

00:12:19: That's What you're looking for When You're trying to cover your gray roots.

00:12:23: but The hair down Down here yeah already has Color In It and yes it might be faded But that foundation Of Colors there.

00:12:29: so all you need Is something To Refresh.

00:12:32: How Do I refresh?

00:12:34: you would choose something that is a demi-semi or a temporary color, which essentially like a semi or a contemporary color.

00:12:43: They don't have ammonia and so the cuticle doesn't open... So they

00:12:47: sit on top?

00:12:47: ...they

00:12:47: sit ON TOP!

00:12:48: And THAT'S what color refreshing is.

00:12:51: Like it when the light shines off of that strand of hair That's been beautifully refreshed with like A temporary or like a gel or a color Or like a semipermanent color.

00:13:01: That's when you see that vibrant copper again and then in combination with the permanent that you needed at The Roots.

00:13:08: Okay, okay.

00:13:10: so just to come back if You do color your hair at home Do the first application?

00:13:19: You do the full head right but every other application after is roots only.

00:13:26: If you need a refresh, yep!

00:13:28: You do not go in with the permanent color or you go into this semi-or demi?

00:13:33: In perfect world that would be enough.

00:13:35: The best case scenario.

00:13:36: Okay

00:13:37: How upset are hairdressers when... When.. When you come in With the mess on your head?

00:13:46: Yeah That kind of you know, because she cooked up some of the little some my home thought.

00:13:52: You were doing good and then like go to the salon and be like hey hi uh can you so?

00:14:00: Can you fix this?

00:14:01: yeah

00:14:02: it's happened to me.

00:14:04: I would say that kind of depends on where your at in your career.

00:14:07: now knowing what i know mm-hmm i mean people are gonna play around.

00:14:12: I mean, you walk in a store or drugstore whatever and You see these boxes And you see these models that are like gorgeous.

00:14:19: That have like Whatever the color is this sparks your interest?

00:14:22: You're gonna play Mm-hmm.

00:14:26: Am i mad about it as A hairdresser?

00:14:29: no i will tell you right here on This episode for everybody to know one if you lie to Your hair dresser and don't Tell them The truth About what's going On Not only have you just created a lot more work for them, but I'm gonna tell you what?

00:14:43: A Lot More Work means a lot money out of your pocket.

00:14:46: So Just Be Honest and Tell Them the Truth.

00:14:48: Yeah

00:14:48: This

00:14:49: is What i got Going on.

00:14:50: They're Gonna be like okay.

00:14:52: Then i'm going to tell You what's realistic in that appointment Today.

00:14:56: uh-huh don't be Coming In With Like you know Silvery Green Dark You Know Whatever Hair.

00:15:02: But i think i want To go platinum because i'm gonna Tell you No.

00:15:06: That's a fast no from me today!

00:15:08: It doesn't mean it is not going to happen over time, maybe two or three visits.

00:15:11: but be honest with your hairdresser okay?

00:15:16: He'll save you time and money and frustration and that whole like bad vibe when I open the foil in bright pink when i was expecting blonde.

00:15:27: So what was it that you did?

00:15:30: Okay.

00:15:30: You want to come clear, huh?

00:15:32: I'm gonna come clean now!

00:15:33: What's up?

00:15:34: there is a talk show in America where they open the Manila envelope on The Talk Show and their like...the proof says yeah well when we opened a foil thats us opening an envelope saying Well you just flat out lied And i know why.

00:15:55: types of hair color sit, how they work.

00:15:58: You know like you lift the cuticle that's opening the door right letting in the color and then okay so do need to lift?

00:16:15: Does every hair color lift or is it something only happens when you go lighter?

00:16:24: how many levels can you go lighter with at home hair color?

00:16:30: Without bleaching.

00:16:31: Yes, no thank you that's a big distinction.

00:16:36: only alkaline hair colors can lift because I need to open the front door and then what alkaline hairs do.

00:16:44: like I'm brown i want to be light Brown

00:16:48: right.

00:16:49: the cuticles opened on my hair it allows.

00:16:55: And then, have you ever used a box color before?

00:16:59: Yeah.

00:16:59: Okay so... At least at COVID everybody I feel like everyone use the box dye before.

00:17:03: So your

00:17:03: typically mixing two things together.

00:17:05: Yes One of those is the pigment and other one is oxygen.

00:17:09: Right!

00:17:11: I kind to give this analogy that hair color pigments are little bit flat balloons.

00:17:17: You need Oxygen like from your lungs to blow up that balloon, to make it look the color its supposed to look.

00:17:25: Hair color pigments are roughly the same.

00:17:27: so if I take a box color that is alkaline permanent color and i try put that color with nothing mixed on my hair kinda nothing will happen.

00:17:38: might stain for minute but thats it.

00:17:40: you need mix two because oxygen is taking those little pigments in blowing them up.

00:17:46: size they're suppose be But that happens inside of your hair.

00:17:50: So imagine... With

00:17:51: the door open?

00:17:53: The door opens, yeah!

00:17:54: ...the mixed color goes on the hair and it goes inside.

00:17:59: Essentially those little flat balloons blow up inside this strand of hair.

00:18:04: I rinse everything off cuticles calm back down in clothes.

00:18:08: Those balloons are trapped inside because they're too big to get out.

00:18:10: Got it,

00:18:12: that's how pigment works?

00:18:12: Yep

00:18:13: and then the oxygen uh-huh That is in that mixed formula.

00:18:16: yeah also what does your lifting?

00:18:18: aha okay so It does two things.

00:18:21: yep it

00:18:22: inflates The hair pigment And it lifts well first.

00:18:25: Well both at the same time lists the cuticle and it inflate the hair pigment.

00:18:30: I feel like, am a hairdresser now.

00:18:32: We're getting

00:18:34: there!

00:18:35: That's it?

00:18:36: Give me a mannequin and i can do it now.

00:18:40: Okay so how much the lifting happens?

00:18:46: right How light you go without bleaching because also those would be two different steps.

00:18:53: Right if you bleach first then color.

00:18:57: Yeah in salon we call that Bleach & Tone Okay.

00:18:59: So it's kind of the same as you would on the street, does that work?

00:19:03: Yeah with a permanent style alkaline hair color.

00:19:08: I don't know...I can't speak for every brand out there but i Would say You Know On average about two to three levels Of good lift Is Expected.

00:19:22: and when I Say Levels of Lift Within The hairdresser world One is black, and ten is ultra light blonde.

00:19:32: Everything else falls in between.

00:19:33: so like a four would be dark brown A five would be medium brown Like six would be a light or dark blond You know?

00:19:41: And everything in-between.

00:19:43: So when I look at your hair because i've used that scale for twenty-plus years now, I can say like no it's a level five.

00:19:55: But then i could look at... Which

00:19:56: I am!

00:19:57: Yeah but then I looked myself up here and I'm on the.

00:20:00: I'm like a level six because I'm a good step lighter than you are.

00:20:04: so goes up and down from there.

00:20:05: So I'm at the store picking up a box color ,I have Level Five hair .

00:20:10: I want Level Six or Seven hair !

00:20:12: I Can Take A Box Successfully Achieve A Lighter Color At

00:20:16: Home.

00:20:18: Did I just blow your

00:20:19: mind?

00:20:19: No, no.

00:20:19: You did.

00:20:20: it was like hmmm... I can't.

00:20:22: yeah It's like let me do i want to.

00:20:24: okay Can you go lighter with Semi-I mean i'm answering that but i'd Just need To write yeah um Can you Go lighter With semi or Demi Hermanent Hair?

00:20:40: so i'll make it easy for you.

00:20:41: Yeah once you color Your hair.

00:20:43: yeah you cannot go Lighter with Color at all and no matter what it is

00:20:48: You will need bleach.

00:20:49: Yep, that's it.

00:20:50: the rule in our world of hair color is color doesn't lift color Mm-hmm.

00:20:55: Okay What about virgin?

00:20:56: here say you have virgin hair?

00:20:58: That you've never colored.

00:20:59: can you try?

00:21:01: You know like I just want to dabble I just wanna play.

00:21:04: Can you go and try do that with semi-demi hair?

00:21:07: no The only thing that we'll lift your hair as alkaline color which are the permanent well categorized Permanent right at the store.

00:21:15: so with Semi and Demi, you can only go lighter.

00:21:18: Deposit.

00:21:19: Right?

00:21:20: You could only go darker.

00:21:21: Yeah, yeah.

00:21:23: Semi's and temporaries for the most part, Demis are deposit like I want to go darker or get a lot of shine.

00:21:34: Really rich in up my color.

00:21:36: The really the only thing that's going to take you lighter is the permanent colors.

00:21:41: Gotcha, and like staying with a topic of semi-endemi at home And then we're gonna go into the salon sphere Is um Do they ever?

00:21:51: Really fully wash out?

00:21:53: because let me if in the back on my head There's this thing where people say yeah it says A semi endemi permanent but It never will fully washout there will always be a hint left.

00:22:06: My little chemistry brain wants to go nutty right now.

00:22:08: I didn't tell you, but let me say this.

00:22:13: Temporaries and semis basically live on the surface of your hair.

00:22:17: Tempiraries are like maybe a chalk or spray something where you put it in one shampoo that is gone.

00:22:28: A semi-permanent has more longevity because the color pigments are paired with certain conditioners or things that will kind of make it stick to the hair for a minute.

00:22:41: Demi-permanent can be slightly alkaline, like we're getting into great area here without

00:22:48: having to mix it in

00:22:50: by

00:22:51: itself.

00:22:51: A demi is where you do now.

00:22:52: mixed two things together You DO

00:22:54: mix a demi!

00:22:55: But its really low ammonia.

00:22:59: so I'm just getting a slight opening on front door which means the color can only go in a slight little bit, which means that I'm getting more longevity than a semi because i am opening the door just now permanent.

00:23:13: I'm opening the doors fully

00:23:14: open the door gotcha.

00:23:15: so okay.

00:23:17: um how long do you have to wait after first shampooing your hair?

00:23:26: After getting color?

00:23:29: You said it perfectly earlier permanent color.

00:23:31: It goes in and those balloons are blowing up or aka developing.

00:23:36: The lifting from the oxygen is what's you know breaking apart your natural melanin to get you lighter.

00:23:41: There's a lot going on then than what meets the eye at the surface when you color hair.

00:23:47: Chemical reactions, you know all these things.

00:23:49: there has been uh like a kind of rule In in the hair color world since I even heard about hair color as a wee child.

00:24:00: You know, twenty-four to forty eight hours almost in line with like perming weight yeah?

00:24:05: Yeah it's not a bad idea.

00:24:10: It is not a force rule so much anymore because technology again has kind of brought us you know leaps and bounds into the future.

00:24:15: however if I've opened the door If i have swelled the cuticle open on my hair just becuase they use something like an acidic conditioner or an aesthetic, you know something doesn't mean that it just slams shut and that's the end of day.

00:24:33: It takes a minute for those cuticles to actually calm down right?

00:24:38: And for pHs to kind of get back to normal.

00:24:41: so do I harden fast?

00:24:45: You have to wait.

00:24:46: no i think you can Do whatever you want but if you really want To try and keep The color you Just did give your hair A break from that chemical reaction and that kind of action.

00:24:58: That's just happened, And I don't think the twenty four to forty eight hours is a bad rule to stick by okay?

00:25:03: Yeah doesn't hurt.

00:25:05: yeah

00:25:05: you know have two but it does not hurt.

00:25:07: so

00:25:08: what can You do To make your color last longer?

00:25:10: mm-hmm.

00:25:11: So sunscreen for Your hair

00:25:15: that's The thing isn't

00:25:16: hundred percent.

00:25:17: so like any sort Of like leave in spray or some hairsprays Have UV protectants In them.

00:25:23: Yes, all day.

00:25:27: It's not that cold water will keep your hair color however hot Water expands things heat expands thing.

00:25:39: so think again about your hair structure.

00:25:41: the cuticles Will swell just from getting wet.

00:25:47: Heat or hot water will swell them even more.

00:25:50: So now think about those hair color pigments that are inside, if I go ahead and open the door again what am i inviting them to do?

00:25:57: Leave leave.

00:25:58: yeah so it's not that cold water is going to keep your hair color although logically that would make sense.

00:26:04: I would just avoid using like really hot water on color-treated hair.

00:26:08: so sunscreens avoid super hot water...I mean If you can avoid shampooing a ton in general, that's going to give you some more longevity because like some colors out there will say like twenty shampoos.

00:26:21: Well if they're considering that's like twenty days then I shampoo every other day than i might have forty days with this color.

00:26:29: so less shampoo and no hot water sunscreen...I mean If There is No Reason For You To Have Your Hair Out And It'S Like Summertime And You'Re Going for a Jog Or Whatever Covered Up Really?

00:26:43: We're a hat.

00:26:43: You know, I had covering or scarf for something like that Like the sun is color's worst enemy.

00:26:49: Is it?

00:26:50: because i feel also...I'm different person after summer with hair you know?

00:26:55: I mean..i used to have this kind of hair in my hair and think its true for most darker hair colors they develop this coppery reddish tone right.

00:27:06: so what does?

00:27:09: Is that a thing?

00:27:09: That's the sign of, you know too much sun.

00:27:12: How do other colors kind of develop like they feel like a darker color gets reddish.

00:27:17: what else is there?

00:27:19: Blonde can get like...

00:27:21: Blondes tend to well-that's different because really when you're going blonde your taking away pigments and leaving the hair in this Blank canvas kind of a state.

00:27:35: so for blondes.

00:27:36: It's more about what's depositing on the hair minerals in the water product buildup things like that, but you're correct.

00:27:42: darker hair as it fades Naturally will show our reddish orangey gold color.

00:27:49: now art.

00:27:50: if like artificial pigments hair color you buy or put on Will fade just like any other hair color will be The.

00:27:59: the one thing I will say that's really important is to buy proper shampoos and conditioners.

00:28:05: That are on the acidic side of the pH range, to really again keep the cuticles.

00:28:10: acidity helps keep your cuticle shut.

00:28:13: so that's definitely something you can use to help avoid fading in getting those brassy orange tones with store-bought color.

00:28:20: okay?

00:28:20: Okay!

00:28:21: So you'd said it doesn't happen with with salon?

00:28:25: Oh hundred percent yeah does right.

00:28:27: um It just When we mix color in the salon, I'm for you choosing colors that four weeks down the road.

00:28:38: I know your hair is going to go a little bit orangy gold.

00:28:42: so i'm gonna formulate counteractive colors In your formula To make sure as time goes That doesn't

00:28:51: happen.

00:28:51: So every color kind of gets this coppery orange tone You will counteract.

00:28:58: I think that's true for every color on the color spectrum.

00:29:03: Everything that tends to get orangey, you will counteract it with what?

00:29:07: Blue.

00:29:08: Blue!

00:29:11: Sir...

00:29:11: Yeah no joke we do have

00:29:13: blue tubes

00:29:14: of hair color.

00:29:15: yeah

00:29:15: so you mix that into like the colors that you don't want to kind of like get orange.

00:29:20: well i'm gonna i'll square up something really simple.

00:29:23: um i think a lot people out there are like, oh you know my hair always goes brassy in the summer or I have red tones and my hair.

00:29:34: I hate to break it too but everybody does okay.

00:29:37: well

00:29:38: i mean that's...i don't even..I'm not even mad!

00:29:41: I feel more comforted by that.

00:29:43: to be honest.

00:29:43: Everybody

00:29:45: has a combination of pigments in their hair that make it the color that it is.

00:29:50: but by and large I'm talking human population right there's of reds, oranges, gold and yellows in almost every single person's hair.

00:30:03: Gotcha!

00:30:04: And those start to show up when the hair has been affected by like sun and heat you know oxygen or things like that.

00:30:15: so I mean yeah everybody's hair kind-of.

00:30:20: have ever seen somebody who bleached their hair?

00:30:22: It is not quite the greatest job ever.

00:30:25: what

00:30:25: color it?

00:30:27: Oh, tends to be yellow or green sometimes but yellow most of the

00:30:30: time.

00:30:31: Yellow like a gold?

00:30:32: Or whatever.

00:30:32: that's because all those pigments live in our hair.

00:30:36: Okay.

00:30:36: So when you try to disturb at the other pigments and then You know though basically those kind of show up Mm-hmm so it is crazy.

00:30:45: And here's like the best way that I can kind of wrap up The conversation about at home hair color or salon as A manufacturer.

00:30:53: if i made hair color i wouldn't Be putting blue hair color out there for the average consumer, because then they would have blue hair.

00:31:02: But as a hairdresser in salon with my hundred and fifty shades to choose from, Hadnet's formula is gonna be mostly- Blue!

00:31:13: I mean... There are those clients Um, but like if she needs... If you need a rich chocolate.

00:31:19: But I don't want it to get brassy and then you also want a little bit of that?

00:31:23: I can literally mix five things to give you very customized formula for you!

00:31:29: Okay so tell me before i go to the salon what is it that I as a customer need to do apart from being super honest with my stylist.

00:31:41: Be on time!

00:31:41: Yeah, yeah.

00:31:43: Okay?

00:31:46: Be on Time be Honest.

00:31:48: what else

00:31:49: um I honestly ask your hairdresser because if My client is coming in for like an all-over Lightning Like a bleaching service i absolutely do not want them to shampoo their hair that day Because the natural oils That happen On Your scalp kind of act as A buffer to that lightener.

00:32:09: But if you're somebody who has like medium brown chocolate hair and you're coming in for a gray root retouch, I do want you to shampoo your hair because any sort of like chocks or crayons, hairspray product buildup excess oil all those things sometimes act as barrier okay?

00:32:28: To the colors.

00:32:29: penetration capability

00:32:31: right Right Okay.

00:32:32: so ask depending

00:32:33: on what OK how helpful are pictures?

00:32:37: I

00:32:41: mean, they do have to be realistic.

00:32:43: Are you gonna tell me if there are realistic or not?

00:32:45: No no

00:32:45: even it's not!

00:32:47: As a hairdresser...I live by pictures because If You Say To Me I Want Tuffy Colored Highlights What Kind Of Tuffy?

00:33:02: Tuffy Faye Tuffy Snickers Tuffy Ice Cream Tuffy Pulled Tuffy.

00:33:09: And then different parts of the world, like things mean different things.

00:33:12: Like now if you show me a picture and it's of a celebrity who cares that she has got to filter on her head?

00:33:19: We're using this as common playing ground.

00:33:22: so I'm like her toffee highlights in my mind thinking that is like a khaki gold color.

00:33:31: but at least we are not playing on same level.

00:33:33: Like pictures are, I mean it's so cheesy.

00:33:40: I'm going to say this but pictures or literally worth a thousand words

00:33:43: okay?

00:33:43: So instead of like i mean a consultation is probably still key.

00:33:48: But yes It's actually super helpful To come with pictures Absolutely and then you will work your way towards achieving.

00:33:56: that might not be in the first sitting Yeah, but You're gonna work

00:34:00: Towards That because Then you could even Say like I like This color But then sometimes you might be telling me, like the money piece.

00:34:09: That's a lot of hair as this same color versus just little strands that are the same color.

00:34:17: they show up differently but that could be whole topic.

00:34:20: Do know what?

00:34:21: The Money Piece once gave me chemical bangs.

00:34:24: I'm sure your not alone.

00:34:25: Oh my god.

00:34:27: worst mistake i've ever made was like I want that money piece.

00:34:30: I had a money piece for like three days and that's it.

00:34:36: And then, I have banks because he was just broke up.

00:34:40: okay all right.

00:34:42: so i have an idea.

00:34:43: Okay So prepare yourself.

00:34:46: um be on time.

00:34:46: Be honest.

00:34:47: bring pictures

00:34:48: Yep!

00:34:49: Then you will Have a conversation about what is achievable?

00:34:52: What does not in when we need to bleach it.

00:34:55: Like I said Bleaching is a whole different ballgame when we have a full episode on bleaching.

00:35:02: All right, okay.

00:35:04: so that's the preparation you did.

00:35:08: Let us get into The tips.

00:35:12: what little nuggets do you have for people?

00:35:15: What are the rules of hair color?

00:35:19: Yeah let s wrap this up with some really nice takeaways.

00:35:24: I would say Be honest with your hairdresser if you're going into the salon.

00:35:27: Yes Tell them the truth so that they know what to expect.

00:35:31: bring pictures because it's really common playing ground.

00:35:33: Mm-hmm If you're gonna do your hair at home You know some God, some really cardin rolls today.

00:35:41: absolutely, you know would live by if I'd.

00:35:46: You don't overlap.

00:35:47: put the color where you need it?

00:35:49: If you go in to refresh the color try to find something that doesn't have ammonia in it, to kind of quote unquote pull through on the end.

00:35:59: so you're not damaging your hair by opening and closing.

00:36:04: Keeping it shiny.

00:36:07: Avoid super hot water in showers.

00:36:10: do some sort UV protection sunscreen for that hair color to keep as long possible.

00:36:17: cover less shampoos cooler water all Um, you know.

00:36:23: and then gosh when we get into blondes which is I'm lucky enough to be back for our Bleaching and Lightning episode.

00:36:29: Then i'm going to get in like special shampoos that you can use.

00:36:32: but um For color treated not bleached hair But color-treated hair.

00:36:37: anything on the acidic side of The pH scale will help To keep That cuticle tight enclosed And your Hair shiny In the Color locked.

00:36:45: in

00:36:46: Final question How do I Know?

00:36:49: what shampoo and conditioner is on the acidic side?

00:36:53: Because that's what I'm looking for, right.

00:36:56: Yeah

00:36:56: yeah so That's a really good question because there might even be shampoos out There that are in the acidic site but that's not how they're marketed mm-hmm.

00:37:06: So a safe bet Is to look For something Whether you're at The store or In this salon On the product shelves.

00:37:13: Look For Something That Says Four Color Treated Hair.

00:37:16: Because I would say for the most part they're formulated in a way that The person who's buying this is intending to keep what?

00:37:25: They've just spent a lot of money on And so it's usually on the acidic side and with special care and ingredients To kind of make sure that everything you spend money on stays.

00:37:36: because that's Shampooes and conditioners.

00:37:38: I mean like, you might think your stylist Is trying to upsell you sometimes but It blows my mind it really does.

00:37:45: that people would spend two, three hundred dollars on a hair color and refuse to buy care.

00:37:52: To support it like I just... It doesn't make sense to me but you you've got to pick your priorities,

00:37:57: I guess.

00:37:58: And maybe that was your two or three hundred dollars of euros whatever- So then spend

00:38:03: one seventy five and spend the extra money on shampoo and conditioner?

00:38:06: Budget correctly!

00:38:07: Okay all right but it's so much...and i have many follow up questions.

00:38:14: But we also do have an episode on hair care.

00:38:22: type of hair needs what, type-of-hair care.

00:38:25: And I think we will revisit color treated hair as well.

00:38:30: so a lot that coming up find us.

00:38:34: You know where to find us, Ian thank you so much for

00:38:36: being here.

00:38:38: I think i now see how you can speak five days about this.

00:38:42: oh!

00:38:43: I mean...I

00:38:45: now see like that's a thing.

00:38:48: yeah Thank-you so much and for sharing all of your knowledge with us.

00:38:51: I hope you learned something today.

00:38:53: I did never gonna lie again the salon, like I'm gonna be on time.

00:38:58: I'm going to bring my little

00:38:59: pictures.".

00:39:00: I will never lie!

00:39:01: Is it even worse than in church?

00:39:04: Like so scared to lie now?

00:39:07: not that i have ever but okay thank you for being with us.

00:39:12: this was gossip curl and we'll see With

00:39:26: me, your

00:39:27: host, Hadnick Tessweil.

00:39:29: A podcast from Henkel Consumer Brands

00:39:31: brought to you by the Global Hair

00:39:33: Upskilling Team produced

00:39:35: by

00:39:35: Bose Park

00:39:36: Productions.

00:39:38: Executive producers Manjana Dietrich, Sue Holder and Chris Guse.

00:39:42: Editor Ian

00:39:43: Mayer Marsalik.

00:39:45: Production Fabio Lautenschläger.

00:39:48: Project management Miki Sitz.

00:39:50: Hair & Makeup Rania Abduraman

00:39:52: Ariel Tross.

00:39:53: Styling Romina Mann.

00:39:57: If you like gossip curl, please subscribe to the podcast.

00:40:00: hit the notification bell so we don't miss an episode.

00:40:04: And while your at it leave us a review and tell all of our friends about this.